Soweto, or southwestern townships, was founded over one hundred years ago outside Johannesburg, South Africa. It was established as the first settlement for black people on the outskirts of Johannesburg. This location, far from work and housing, consisted of huts and corrugated tin shacks. Over the next few decades, more and more people were moved to the area and it became the biggest township in the country. Today Soweto has 32 townships and the official population is around one million. Many believe it is much higher, as high as 2 or 3 million. The violent student uprisings in 1976 became the event known around the world: in June that year, students from the township were protesting against the use of the Afrikaans language for schooling. The South African regime responded by shooting at unarmed children in school uniform. On June 16, 1976, 12-year-old Hector Pieterson was shot dead by police. Sam Nzima, a local black photographer, took an iconic image. The picture of an older boy carrying the wounded Hector Pietersen with his sister beside him was cabled around the world and showed the brutality of the South African police and regime. The events sparked a re-awakening of black resistance; many important events at the time occurred in the township and many of the key players in the struggle lived in and operated from Soweto.

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Today, Soweto is often seen as a model of hope for South Africa; no longer a place of doom and gloom, but a place of hope. Of course it has its problems, with a high level of poverty, unemployment and crime, but positive developments are beginning to filter through. Recent years have brought investment, and many people now enjoy modern shopping malls, banks, restaurants and trendy bars, with some Soweto residents beginning to spend their time and money in the township. Most still work in Johannesburg, but they no longer need to buy groceries there and bring them home in minibus taxis. More and more people have their own cars and buy everything close to home. Soweto is also developing as a source of new fashion, art and different styles of music and language. Soweto has recently seen a property boom, with every property on sale attracting several potential buyers and usually being sold within a few days. In addition, the South African economy is stronger than ever, offering positive prospects for the people. Many old shacks have been razed and thousands of small government subsidized houses have been built. In the 1990s, newly rich blacks left the township and moved to the traditionally white and affluent northern suburbs. Many now live in mansions with high walls and tight security and only know their neighbors by name. It has been a difficult adjustment for many. Added problems are the high crime rate in affluent suburbs, with house-breakings and car hijackings. Many of them miss the vibrant life in the townships and often come back to visit at weekends, for family gatherings and funerals, or just to wash their new BMWs at the car wash while having a few beers with their childhood friends. Now some want to move back to the “New Soweto”. Up-market apartments and townhouses are being built and a number of trendy bars and clubs have opened. The township has also become a popular tourist destination with foreign visitors on tours to see historic sites such as Nelson Mandela’s home (now a museum), the Hector Pieterson memorial and museum, and also visiting people’s homes and eating traditional food at one of the many restaurants. Some choose evening bar tours and there are plenty of Bed & Breakfast establishments for those who wish to spend the night in Soweto.

Per-Anders Pettterson

Per-Anders Pettersson

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