Leaving Grozny
Thomas Dworzak
Magnum Photos
WINNER OF THE KODAK YOUNG PHOTOGRAPHER AWARD 2000
Living in Moscow, I took my first trip away from Moscow to Chechnya, in June of 1993. Until then, all I had heard about the Chechen’s propensity for “lawlessness” was based on mere rumours. Most of my Russian friends, held them responsible for all of Russia’s ills. On account of this bad reputation, Moscovites nicknamed them “black asses”, a derogatory term broadly used against all Caucasians. On my arrival to Grozny, it hit me to see the entire population armed to the teeth. Kalashnikovs were as easy to come across as the the most common of commodities. Yet, despite the disturbing reports I heard about their alleged lawlessness, I could not help marvelling at their innate sense of hospitality. I decided to move to Tbilisi in 1994 to delve further into my curiosity with the Caucasus and ended up spending most of my time between Grozny and Tbilisi.
During the summer of 1994 despite a wave of civil unrest unleashed by Doudaïev’s led separatist forces clashing with a rather pro-Moscow opposition, nobody could have guessed, back then, that the outbreak of a full-blown Guerilla war was imminent. But sure as sure as anything, war did break out in the winter of 1994-95 and the Russian forces showed no mercy. The Chechens fought admirably, displaying great courage although being hugely outnumbered. Pre-war differences were soon forgotten. It was a case of showing a united front against Russia.
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This was a time when Chechen fighters still considered journalists welcome visitors. The same could not be said for the Russians. I spent the next two years working in Chechnya, devoting most of my time to my work as a photographer in this war-torn part of the world. At the same time I was also determined to become more acquainted with the customs of the local people. After the remarkable take- over of Grozny ( a territory they managed to claim back), in the summer of 1996, which culminated in the retreat of the Russian forces, an unsuspected wave of kidnappings began. Foreigners staying in the country were not spared, either. I came back in the Autumn of 1997 to find that everything had changed. For safety reasons, I found it impossible to walk around freely. So I had to hire no less than 6 body-guards to escort me. There was hardly a safe place left in the whole of the Northern Caucasus region. You could not trust either sides. Chechnya, which had gained by then, independence, was under the oppressive control of criminal gangs who laid down the law often in cahoots with Russian partners. These latter had managed to take hold of the region’s nerve-centres.
Those who during the first war had fought for the righteous cause no longer had a say in the running of the country. I moved to Kosovo in 1999 and had no illusions about ever being able to go back to Northern Caucasus. When war broke out again, I entered the territory controlled by the rebels by crossing the Georgian border. Patently, freedom of movement was greatly reduced compared to what it had been during the first conflict. Abductions still took place, as can be certified by Brice Fleutiaux.
This time round though, Russia had seized all control over press releases. Co-operating with the Chechens had become all but impossible. I can’t honestly say that there was any real war coverage of the conflict in Chechnya. The most vivid memories of any real work being done on the subject go back to the first conflict. In these circumstances and with the exception of the occasional entry pass from the Russian border, I was prevented totally unable to move freely around the country. Occasionally I was hit by a stroke of luck. I was in Alkhan-Kala , for instance, the day the fighters walked out. Frustrated and disappointed by all that stood in the way of my work as a photographer in Chechnya, a situation which was compounded by the refusal to co-operate from the Chechen government (from 1997 onwards) and chauvinistic attitudes from the Russians, I was forced to leave the country.
However, I was determined that others should find out about the predicament of the different ethnic groups in the Caucasus area, so I decided to concentrate my work on war reports in the neighbouring republics. One day I hope to return to Chechnya.
Thomas Dworzak
Makhatchkala July 20, 2000
